
Eat & Sleep
Trattoria Sabatino
Sabatino is clearly an Italian-style eating establishment less formal than a restaurant, well for me it is “HOME”!
It’s home not only because they make a simple, moderate, light and delicious cusine just like a good wife, mum or grandma would prepare, also because when you cross the door you are being greeted by a family that since 1956 take care of the business with passion, love and dedication. I would say it is the real trattoria fiorentina.
I’ve started to go to Sabatino more than 20 years ago, perhaps I was still a student at the Belle Arti Academy, or maybe I had just started to work at the bottega (shop) in Via dei Serragli…
If I’m not wrong my sister took me there the first time under suggestion of Andrè, an affectionate client.
At that time the restaurant was in Borgo San Frediano, it was amazing with its unmistakable green, the tablecloths were covered by a lay of transparent plastic, simple and warm just like today. A water reservoir was sitting in the middle of the kitchen, they used this as drinking water and I can’t even remember if sparkling water even existed, it doesn’t matter really!
Let’s come back to the family, the real strength of Sabatino.
Ilaria is at the entrance, always busy with table bills and answering the phone, she greets guests with a beautiful and friendly smile. Under that smile there is a tough woman, ready to manage all situation and to deal with thousands of duties linked to the business. Between all things, she find the time to help her sister Letizia in the kitchen, preparing cakes, desserts and starters. Letizia is a more discreet personality, still very friendly, she has got everything under her control, no dish is ever late, no yelling in the kitchen!
Massimo, Ilaria’s husband, oversees the tables. He’s tireless, runs back and forth to take orders that he mostly holds in mind - never know how he does it! Always very professional and keen to a joke with the regulars.
Then there’s Laura, mum and nag, who for me is the real boss, even if she doesn’t want me to say so!! She’s the one who shouts from the kitchen “Welcome Francesco..” and then a bunch of hugs and kisses. If someone she doesn’t particularly like arrives she lets it seep in a very subtle and elegant way, and it’s suddenly laughs for everyone. She never loses the thread, she’s always on the spot but never stilling the spotlights. She’s the one who prepares the tables, always ready to help everyone, she’s problem solving and sometimes she grumbles something when it’s needed. Well, she’s the boss!
Sadly Valerio is no longer with us, father of Ilaria and Letizia and Laura’s husband. He belonged to the kitchen, he taught the culinary art to the family, a piece to each and everyone of them and the valuable things to all: responsibility, respect, to be professional and accommodating. For this reasons Valerio is still there in our minds, every day.
Sabatino is a unique place, I basically go there every day at lunch time and I’ll never get bored of it. Many other locals do so, artisans, entrepreneurs, students, even foreigners… this ensure that the family is even bigger, joyous and interesting.
Now, let’s talk about the kitchen. No doubts, first place goes to the acciughe marinate made by Massimo, never tried anything that good and I’d be ready to bet on it with any other fish restaurant. Second is the baccalà al pomodoro (tomatoes) con I ceci (chickpeas). Third place goes to Letizia’s chocolate budino, really yummy.
To be honest Sabatino’s podium has many many steps as lots of the dishes are perfectly delicious: il pollo arrosto (rosted chicken), il pollo ripieno (stuffed chiken), la braciola alla livornese, la braciola ai ferri (typical Italian-style sliced meat) just to mention a few. Must try desserts are definitely la schiacciata alla fiorentina and il millefoglie.
I could go on and on telling you about this place, but the best thing is that one day you’ll come “HOME” with me!